Get That Meat to Plate

After being hypnotized by the auctioneer’s steady hum at the Toppenish Livestock Commission last week, we thought we’d go full circle and visit a local butcher to see what it takes to get that meat to plate. Just off of Jones Road near Highway 97 in the Wapato countryside, we pulled off the pavement in front of CJ’s Custom Meats.

Now, CJ’s isn’t a new stop for rooted. My husband and I worked our way up from getting a quarter of a cow with some friends several years ago, to getting a whole cow of our own, and CJ’s has always been in charge of the butchering. We upped the game the last few years and have gotten a pig as well, and a lamb rotates through from time to time. Suffice it to say that our freezer is well stocked with an assortment of superbly butchered meats. Their sausages are dynamite, the jerky—to die for, and the steaks are always cut just right. Stopping by their shop on this gray winter afternoon, we were able to have a more intimate chat with the owner/butcher, Mike Rockholt.

First thing, he let us peek at the meat he had on the rail that day. Back through a labyrinth of gray freezer doors, just past a ginormous hanging elk, we entered a bona fide Rocky Balboa training room. It was just honest, seeing so much beef hanging to cure all at once. Mike explained to us how most of the volume buyers sell by weight, so they don’t participate in a lengthy drying process because it reduced the overall mass too much, which is why most supermarket chain meat is sold on trays—to catch all the moisture. When your animal is custom however, it hangs for about 2 weeks before the butchering begins, and the flavor and tenderness is able to develop more fully that way.

Mike and his wife Carol opened CJ’s Custom Meats 21 years ago, and their experience is evident. As an independent operator doing custom work, they have the opportunity to really get to know their customers. It’s old school like that. They aren’t licensed for sale to restaurants, but their residential connections run deep. Most of their business is butchering for people with their own animals, but if you wanted to stop by their small shop front on Jones Rd., there is plenty to choose from—jerkies, pepperonis, sausages, chicken wings, hamburger patties, and much, much more all made right on site. I asked where they found their recipes for these specialty items and Mike said that he made it up as they went, and after years of doing just that, he has developed some pretty fantastic options.

If you buy your cow at auction, tell them it’s going to CJ’s, then start thinking about how thick you want your steaks cut. If you pasture your own animal, just give them a call and they’ll come to you. After a couple weeks on the rail, the carnivorous half of your inner omnivore will fist pump with glee at the thought of a full freezer. It’s always nice to have great options in the kitchen.

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We hit up Chef Brad Masset for a steak recipe and here’s what he shared. (We’ll all be making it soon!)

Wild Mushroom-Encrusted NY Steak
(with Red Wine Pan Sauce Reduction)

4, 1 inch thick cut prime or choice grade NY steaks
1/4 cup all purpose flour
1/4 cup ground dried wild mushrooms (grind in Cuisinart or blend)
2 t course salt
1 t black pepper

Mix flour and dried mushrooms and salt & pepper in flat pan.
Dredge steaks until thoroughly coated.
Heat saute pan with oil until almost smoking.
Sear steaks and place into a pre-heated 375 degree oven on a flat pan.
Roast until 10 degrees less than desired doneness (example:  cook until rare if you desire medium rare).

Remove from oven and cover with foil for 10 min. It will continue to cook until your desired doneness.
While steaks are roasting, empty fry pan of oil, but do not wipe clean.
Saute a finely diced half of an onion in pan, add a tablespoon of finely chopped garlic being sure it doesn’t burn.

Red wine Pan Sauce Reduction
Deglaze with a half cup of red wine and reduce until it starts to naturally thicken, add a half cup of beef stock, reduce until that thickens, season with salt, pepper, Maggi, Worchestershire  and a dash of Tobasco to liking (no, it won’t get spicy, it’s just a background flavor). Once reduced, mount with a quarter stick of butter.
Pour over steaks.

Brad Masset is executive chef and owner of Birchfield Manor and 5 North Bistro both located in the Yakima Valley.