Savory Tradition of French Canadian Tourtière
Over 125 years ago, clusters of families immigrated to the Yakima Valley from Quebec, Canada, through the Midwest, lured by the chance to establish new lives in the fledgling agricultural community that was just beginning to emerge. Driving around Moxee, Washington today, we see a visible legacy of these pioneers whose family names are reflected in the street signs—Gamache, Faucher, LaFramboise, Morrier, Charron, Rivard, and Robillard just to name a few. While these French speaking families brought along their Québécoin culture, one unique tradition was the preparation of a tourtière, otherwise known as a meat pie, at Christmas time.
My husband’s Mémé (French term for grandmother) a Charron, kept this tradition alive through the years with a family recipe, and many of today’s generation remember their own Mémé in the kitchen cooking this odd pairing of meat and pie crust on Christmas morning.
Feeling sentimental about our French-Canadian roots, I wanted to recreate this family tradition for our three daughters by making our own tourtière pie this holiday season. Sunday is a great cooking day, and reminds me to slow down and hang around in the kitchen to make some Christmas time food memories, especially with my youngest sous chef, Vivienne.
After browning meat laced with fragrant spices, and rolling out scratch pie crust, la finition! This crème de la crème of French-Canadian perfection is finally done. Rich juices bubble from the top of the pie along with steaming and savory aromas. After cooling to a palatable temperature, the feast is on for the Desmarais children. Vivienne is proud of her hard work, but still seems perplexed how “meat” and “pie” have gone together, but the rest of my family seems to accept the concept, devouring an old, but new, family recipe.
With this recipe, every family has a different take on the beloved classic. For the tourtière, I’ve learned that some families use pork for filling, while others use beef, or a combination of both. Bread crumbs, or potatoes, might be added as well. Homemade crust, sometimes with sugar sprinkled on top, is a must—no store bought allowed here—and decorative symbols or initials are delicately carved into the top of the pie to remember who’s who, if you’re lucky enough to get your own. That’s what I love about this dish, it’s tailored to each family’s likes and traditions.
So why does this pie taste like Christmas? It’s the hint of clover and ginger added while the meat is cooking, reminding me of all things associated with the holidays. I love clover so the house smelled like a clover bomb went off which was like being in nirvana.
This pie can be made in large batches and kept frozen, and was often gifted to family and friends during the holidays.
I’m not going to lie, traditions can be challenging to continue, but I’m proud to keep things going for the next generation. Bon appétit! Merci Mémé.
Tourtiere French Meat Pie (10″)
Tourtière (click to print)
Brown Together:
2 lbs. ground pork
1 medium onion chopped
2 garlic cloves minced
Seasoning:
1 bay leaf (discard after simmer)
1/2 tsp. ground ginger
1/8 tsp. ground cloves
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp pepper
1 10.5 oz can of beef broth
Corn starch
Add seasonings to browned meat simmer on low 5 minutes and add corn starch to thicken.
Crust: Combine 2 cups flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt
2/3 cup shortening
Combine & sprinkle flour 1 tbs at a time. Make enough for one top & bottom crust.
1 egg well beaten
1/4 cup cold water
1 tsp lemon juice
1/2 tsp. dried thyme leaves
Cool the prepared meat filling in the skillet before putting it into the pie crust.
Remove from fridge and let it warm to room temperature.
Bake at 400 F degrees for 20 minutes.
What a beautiful article !!! I am inspired to make this meat pie for Dick and I on Christmas Eve . Merci Meme and a great big thank you to you Shelly ???
Thank you so much for sharing your recipe as well as some local history.
I was not raised but, transplanted in the valley.
I always enjoy learning more about the valley’s rich cultural diversity as well as the traditions and history that wind through it like the river herself.
I especially enjoy when we share our culture, and traditions with our family, friends and neighbors!
Merci Mémé, Merci Shelley!
Making this!!
My grandparents last name and mine was LeRoue and lived in Moxie this is something I have seen as a child myself
Oh, man, that’s amazing looking! I’ve got to try this. I do an Ethiopian-inspired sweet and savory meat pie with ground beef (or lamb if I can get my hands on it) and cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg along with garlic, diced potatoes and carrots and onions. It might sound odd but it’s wonderful, especially during the winter.
Two of my aunts were Sarrazin from Montreal, Quebec, married two of the Gamache brothers and raised their families in the Yakama valley. Their mother (my grandmother) taught them to make tortiere, a tradition that I have carried on with my own family here in Ontario. If you are a Gamache and are reading this, you should know that our Mémé was in an orphanage in the Eastern Townships for a while after her mother died. “Les soeurs grise” (the grey nuns) would have taken care of her and helped to teach her to cook. As a result, our recipe is theirs…a traditional French Canadian version from the Eastern Townships. I love that you can tell a little about which part of Quebec people’s ancestry are from, based on how they make their tourtiere. For example, Lac St. Jean use potatoes and a lattice crust. Closer to New Brunswick, you may have venision in the recipe.
Thank you for sharing. It makes me happy to know that family traditions have carried on in so many different places.
Merci ! What a beautifully told story. I love learning more history about the valley. The French have flavored so many things… And like in Walla Walla with the Italians, brought many gifts to enrich our land and life. We will treasure this recipe and share it with my brother- in- law, Brad Patterson, longtime chef at Gasperetti’s. Merry Christmas and again, merci!
Very beautifully put together for us all to enjoy! Thank you!
Another beautiful post! Thank you for sharing some local history and pride in all this valley has to offer!
Wow! What a timely article that has touched my heart! My maiden name is Rivard. My great grandparents came to Mixed from Minnesota and were hop farmers. My dad just asked me this morning if I was going to make meat pies this year. My mom passed away 5 years ago and she always made them. This is the first year that I said, “No, I’ve got too much to do.” Actually I didn’t feel like I made them very well. I am changing my mind after reading this and I am going to make them after all in honor of our French Canadian traditions! Thank you for Sharing! Camille Jones, yakima, wa.
Thank you for sharing your memories and stories! Really is a special tradition for so many families.
Merci beaucoup, Shelley, I have been looking for a recipe for tortiere, tourtiere, pork pie for several years. I am feeling a little nostalgia for my french Christmas traditions. I am a Gamache, married to a Regimbal and missing pork pie and boudin (blood sausage) for special holiday treats. I did not realize that this recipe was orginated in Quebec area and no wonder my french son-in-law had no idea what I was talking about when talking about Christmas pork pie!
Hey, that’s my mom’s (Lenette Lindemann) recipe! And her handwriting on the scanned copy. She’s a Charron and has made this dish every year since I can remember! It truly is delicious and a special part of our annual tradition. Thanks for sharing.
My father was a Ricard. I never got to know his side of the family so I don’t know any of the traditions so I was very excited to find this French Canadian recipe! It is the first I have ever seen! I am very excited to learn more! Thank you so much!
Very enjoyable! Thanks for sharing!
Please cite the person who wrote the recipe